Tina Frank, Author at Sender One Climbing - Page 2 of 3
Black History Month: Health and Wellness

Black History Month: Health and Wellness

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 The theme of Black History Month in 2022 is centered around Black Health and Wellness. 

In the midst of Covid-19, Black Health and Wellness has become a prevalent conversation piece. Throughout the pandemic, Black communities have been disproportionately affected on all levels – physically, mentally, and emotionally. Black men and women are at a higher risk for serious illness, and many report that the pandemic has had a profound negative impact on their mental health and emotional well-being.

Through art, Black communities have had a platform to express the challenges of this global tragedy and share stories through color and movement. One recent exhibition "In the Midst of All That Is"  featuring the artwork of LA based artists Tiffanie Delune and Kaye Freeman provokes a conversation about current global challenges in regard to the Covid-19 pandemic and other social, political and economic ills (a piece of this exhibit can be found above. Both artists insist on searching for the silver-lining in these fraught times, mainly through the use of vibrant color palettes that are invoked through their real and imagined cityscapes and dreamscapes. These artists imbue their paintings with the hope that this uncertain future that we are living through will bring kinder days ahead for humankind.

Exhibition for "In the Midst of All that Is" at the Band of Vices, an LA based art and culture company committed to providing a platform to often overlooked creative communities a narrative. Learn more about the artists and this exhibition. 

Thankfully the future isn't being left to total uncertainty, as many non-profit organizations are at the forefront of bringing these kinder days to light through advocacy programs, outreach, policy, and education. Not only do these organizations provide support and resources  for Covid-19, but many other issues that Black communities face in access to healthcare and wellness.

Below you'll find information on a few of these organizations, where you can educate yourself on the these issues in order to be a voice for the cause, be empathetic ear for those around you, and share or use the resources they provide. Lastly, we've also included Podcasts that aim to empower Black communities, as well as encourage self-love and healing.

Black Health and Wellness Organizations

California Black Women's Health Project

About Them: The California Black Women's Health Project (CABWHP) is the only statewide, non-profit organization that is solely committed to ​improving the health of California's 1.2 million Black women and girls through advocacy, education, outreach and policy. We focus on empowering Black women to take personal responsibility for our own health and to advocate for changes in policies that negatively affect Black women's health status.

Health Resources: Utilize their Health Toolkits under the 'Our Health' section as a resource for Mental Health, Maternal Health, COVID, and more.

Get Involved: You can get involved by donating, or volunteering your time.

Black Women for Wellness

About Them: Black Women for Wellness aims to expand healthcare access, reduce toxic hair care chemicals that are prevalent in our community and build political advocacy in California and beyond.

Health Resources: Join weekly events including interactive discussions on health and wellness topics, book clubs, and community outreach.

Get Involved: Support by donating to their cause, or volunteer your time. 

 

 

Podcasts

Be Well, Sis

Across the board, Black women suffer the worst medical outcomes and score the lowest in well-being assessments. Yet unfortunately, Black women are consistently overlooked or are an afterthought in the Wellness community. Be Well, Sis was created to address this gap and is dedicated to empowering Black women with insightful conversations to heal mentally, emotionally, physically, and spiritually. This space is where we can finally feel seen and be heard. Join us!

Listen on Spotify or Apple

Black Mens Mental Health

Casanova Williams, CEO, Father, Husband, Friend, Leaders, Creator, Entrepreneur which brings challenges everyday. But society never addresses mental health of the black male as they do with other races and genders. This podcast is not a replacement to therapy, but is an alternative thought-provoking option that showcases real-life stories to help connect Black Men with their feelings and for others to understand the day to day struggles of being a black male in America and the roll mental health plays.

Listen on Spotify or Apple

The Self Love Fix

The self love fix podcast is a podcast all about helping WOC delve deeper into self love, self worth, personal development, self esteem and self care. Here on the self love fix we get relatable, we laugh, we cry, we heal, but most of all we learn about the truth of who we are and what we deserve.

Listen on Spotify or Apple

Climb Together In the Year of the Tiger

Climb Together In the Year of the Tiger

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It's the Year of the Tiger! But what exactly does that mean...?

Chinese New Year, one of many Lunar New Year celebrations, begins on the new moon which marks the end of Winter and beginning of Spring. One of the many components of Chinese New Year that makes it unique from other Spring Festivals is the Chinese Zodiac, which is a repeating 12-year cycle of animal signs based on the lunar calendar. 2022 is the year of the tiger!

With her passion for climbing and desire to share Chinese Culture with the community,  Co-Founder and CEO Alice Kao was inspired to launch a Tank that celebrates both. Alice share's more with us about her inspiration for the tank top and her own  Chinese New Year Traditions below in a Q&A.

Celebrating Chinese New Year Through Art

These Chinese-inspired Climbing Tanks designed by artist Ariel Lee are available for purchase in-person and online. Sender One will donate 50% of proceeds during February 2022 to the Asian Pacific Island Forward Movement, a group dedicated to cultivating healthy, long-lasting, and vibrant Asian and Pacific Islander communities through grassroots organizing. 

Co-Founders Alice Kao, Wes Shih and family on Chinese New Year 2021

Wes Shih in a Chinese-inspired climbing shirt from Uplift Climbing

Q&A with Co-Founder and CEO, Alice Kao 

Q: What was your inspiration to share this part of your Asian culture with the community? 

A: "Actually the idea was inspired by Andrew Hou at Uplift Climbing in Seattle, WA.  Wes and I went to Seattle last September to meet up with other climbing gym owners and we checked out Andrew's new bouldering gym.  He sells a shirt at this gym that says "Climbing Gym" in Chinese.  I was so intrigued by it I told him I'd like to copy his idea (and send him a shirt when Sender One prints one!)

The truth is I've always wanted to share Chinese culture with the community, since we started the company almost 10 years ago, but it didn't feel like it was a good time until now.  We attended our first Climbing Wall Association summit in 2012 and we were the ONLY Asian people who were climbing gym owners.  I might have been the only woman of color who owns a climbing gym in America for a very long time.  It has definitely changed over the past few years and the climbing industry is becoming more diverse across all levels.  I'm really proud to be a part of this transformation."

Q: Sender One has 6 Core Values, why did you choose 'Climb Together' to be represented in this design? 

A: "Because "Climbing Together" is what has gotten all of us through the past 24 months, and because the Chinese phrase for Climbing Together sounds and looks cool."

Q: Does your family celebrate Chinese New year, and if so how do you celebrate? 

A: "Yes! I was born and raised in Taiwan and moved to the US when I was 12.  My memories of Chinese New Year as a kid were lots of family gatherings, mahjong, and lots of red envelopes.  My mom and I have tried to carry some of these traditions with us now that we're in the US.  We still eat hot pot on Chinese New Year's eve, dumplings on Chinese New Year's day, and give the kids red envelopes.  Hopefully soon we'll start teaching the kids how to play mahjong, it'll help them learn Chinese characters."

Q: What is your Chinese zodiac? 

A: "Year of the Sheep. To illustrate how much my family cares about this, my Chinese name has the character of the sheep in it!"

Q: What's something you'd like to accomplish in the Year of the Tiger?

A: "To be courageous like a tiger and open another gym 🙂 "

About the Artist

Ariel Lee is an Asian American artist and illustrator based out of Southern California. Just like her Chinese Zodiac animal, the Ram, her heart seems to be in the colorful mountains shown in her art. She shared with us that some other AAPI artists that inspire her include Josh Cochran, Tomi Um, and Andrew Hem. See more of her colorful paintings on her Instagram @lee_ariel_, or visit her site

Photo of Ariel Lee by Margaret Austin Photography for Google’s Artist in Residence program

Bitterbrush Mountains, Gouache on paper, 2021, 11x15 in 

Mural by Ariel Lee, Photo by: Andrea Ceseña

Horizon Showers, Gouache on paper, 2021, 15x11 in

Announcement: Sender One Huntington Beach

Announcement: Sender One Huntington Beach

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Updated 1/21/21

Sender One Climbing to open its third bouldering-only facility in Huntington Beach, CA. Promised Westwood location in Los Angeles moves forward.

Announcing: Sender One Huntington Beach!

Sender One is excited to announce that we are expanding our climbing family! We're bringing new heights to Bella Terra in Huntington Beach, CA! In addition to our current two full-service locations in Orange County and Los Angeles, Sender One Huntington Beach will be the third bouldering-only facility after Playa Vista (2021) and Westwood (2022).

Bouldering is a form of climbing where you don’t need a rope or harness to scale the walls. All you need are some climbing shoes, chalk (optional), and the desire to rock climb! Indoor bouldering typically involves climbing up and down walls that are between 12-16 feet tall. Just like our other Sender One facility, this climbing space will cater to brand new and experienced climbers. 

This location is projected to open in late 2023, or early 2024. 

 

About the Space and Location

Sender One Huntington Beach will be a 9000 sf bouldering and fitness facility. We are especially thrilled to be expanding our footprint in this area and to further serve the Orange County community. We may not have all the fine details just yet, but we’ll be sure to keep you updated when we find out more!

Bella Terra in Huntington Beach is an outdoor, open-air shopping, dining, and entertainment experience located right off the 405 freeway and just 10 minutes from the beach. Before or after your climbing session, you can conveniently grab a bite to eat or sip on some coffee, get your groceries at Whole Foods or Costco, or treat yourself to some shopping. Follow them on Instagram @bellaterrahb to start exploring the area!

We’re looking forward to discovering and connecting with the Huntington Beach community as the Sender One family continues to grow!

By the way, we are working hard on finding our next full-service location! Stay tuned.

 

Sender One Westwood Update

Still on track to open late 2022, Sender One Westwood has made some progress since the last update in 2021 by finalizing the design and engineering of the space. This 10,000 sf bouldering-only facility will also include an upstairs mezzanine overlooking the climbing where the training boards, fitness, and yoga will reside. We are currently in the permitting process and hope to begin construction as early as Spring 2022.

Although we were delayed due to the pandemic, we are delighted to be opening up as other new businesses and restaurants fill the Westwood Village area and students return to school. Check out this article about the lively return of Westwood Village.

For more about Sender One Westwood and the location, revisit the original announcement post!

 

Bouldering League: Everything You Need to Know

Bouldering League: Everything You Need to Know

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Bouldering League season is here and we have everything you need to get started! If it's your first time participating you should know that bouldering league is not just any community event - it's where teams climb together to score based on progress, not just prowess.

Whether you are brand new to climbing or have years of experience, you have an equal chance to win the ultimate title of Bouldering League Champion! The best part is, participants receive perks including:

  • a Bouldering League shirt or tank
  • entry in a raffle on finals night for a chance to win sweet swag
  • to participate in 4 weeks of Bouldering League!
  • to compete to win the title of Bouldering League champion and a coveted Bouldering League trophy!

To sign-up for Bouldering League or review more FAQs, check out our Bouldering League page.

If you are brand new to climbing, you can also check out our "Climbing 101: The Essentials" blog that will introduce bouldering grades, how to complete a route, climbing techniques, and more!

Setting a Handicap

In Bouldering League you compete against yourself to earn points. This is done by completing more difficult routes than you may normally as you progress over the 4-week Bouldering League period.

This is tracked by setting a handicap, which is the highest grade you can climb consistently. The more routes you complete at or above your handicap grade, the more points you earn for your team!

When you sign-up for bouldering league you will need to set your handicap. To estimate what you should set for your handicap, you can use the average* grade of the top 5 grades climbed during your last session or two.

If a handicap is set too low, Sender One may manually adjust it during Bouldering League to reflect a climber's true level. Here are some examples of setting a handicap:

*You can calculate the average by adding up the 5 grades, then dividing by 5.

Beginner Benny

Benny is newer to bouldering and climbs anywhere from a v0 to a v3, depending if he has time to project the route. Here are the top 5 grades he completed in his last session:

v1, v1, v1, v2, v2v1, v1, v2, v2, v3

At first glance, we can see Benny can consistently climb v2s. His average grade is between a 1 and a 2, and he should choose one of those grades for his handicap. Let's assume Benny is able to flash v1s, and most of his v2s.

In this case, Benny should select 2 as his handicap.

Experienced Elizabeth

Elizabeth has been bouldering for over 3 years, and climbs anywhere from a v0 to a v7 depending if she has time to project the route. Here are the top 5 grades she completed in her last session:

v3, v4, v4, v5, v6v3, v4, v4, v5, v7

At first glance, we can see Elizabeth can consistently climb v4s and some v5s. Her average grade is betwee a 4 and a 5, and she should choose one of those grades for her handicap.

If Elizabeth completed the v5s after projecting during multiple sessions, she should probably set her handicap at 4. If Elizabeth completed the v5s after just a few attempts, she should probably set her handicap at a 5.

Scoring

Climbing for a Score

You will submit your scores once a week on the first day that you attempt the Bouldering League routes. Since you only get to earn points on the first day you climb the routes, be sure to leave it all on the wall that day!

You are welcome to come back and climb the Bouldering League routes again, they just won't count towards your score.

Earn points based on Handicap

While you can earn some points for completing routes below your handicap, most of your points are earned by completing routes at or above your handicap grade. Try to focus your energy on some of the more difficult routes since that's where you will score big time!

Flashing

Flashing means that you completed a route on your first attempt. Flashing a route will help you earn extra points!

Weighting

Bouldering League is all about rewarding progress. To reward progress, scores are weighted each week. This means that your score in Week 4 will count more towards your overall score than your score in Week 1. Here's an example of how weighting works (numbers may not be exact to what is used in scoring):

Week 1: score x 1

Week 2: score x 1.5

Week 3: score x 2

Week 4: score x 2.5

Individual Scores

Each week you will complete as many routes as you can in one session, and submit all of them for a score. However, only the top 5 scores earned will be used to calculate your total score of that week. Since you won't know which route will earn more points, be sure to submit them all!

If you aren't able to complete 5 routes that's okay. You may miss out on a few points but you can make up the points next week!

Team Scores

In your team of 4, only the 3 top scores each week are used for your total score. This is helpful if a teammate is unable to participate that week, or if someone is just having  a high-gravity week!

What to expect

When to Climb

You can climb for your score any day of the week, from setting day (varies by location) until Sunday @ closing.  Just remember to submit your scores on the first day you climb.

While it's not required, we encourage everyone to climb as a team to meet new friends and cheer each other on!

Bouldering League Tags

Bouldering League tags look different than what you normally see in the gym. They have a design of a trophy, and are numbered usually from 1-22 (may vary by location). When you come in to climb for Bouldering League, you can climb any (or all) of these routes to try and earn points.

Since these tags only have the route number, the grade of each route in Bouldering League is a mystery - so try as many routes as you can and spend extra time on routes that seem within your range!

Comradery 

One of the best things you can expect from Bouldering League is the comradery between every climber. While it's a competition, the climbing community never ceases to support and encourage one another. If you find yourself struggling near the top of a climb and suddenly hear some clapping and yelling, you can bet it's everyone below cheering you on to make that final move!

Scorecards

Paper scorecards will be available at the front desk to pick up on your way in. When you complete a Bouldering League route (indicated by the special tag), you will write down the number of the route you completed, if you flashed it, and get a witness to sign-off. Here's an example:

Route Number CompletedFlashed?Witness
#8YesWitness Signature

Submitting Your Score

On your paper scorecard you'll find a QR code. Each week you'll scan this QR code to submit your scores when you're done climbing!

Tracking Your Score

At the end of each week scores will be posted via Facebook on our Sender One Bouldering League page. Scores will also be shared via Instagram on the account where your Bouldering League is being hosted. Follow your Sender One location to get updates: @senderone_playavista, @senderone_lax, @senderone_sna.

Climbing 101: The Essentials

Climbing 101: The Essentials

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Whether you are new to the climbing community or thinking about trying it out, welcome! We are here to help get you started with some information and resources you might need as you start your climbing journey:

If you have more questions beyond what is included in this article, our staff is always available to help! You can also connect with the Community for more support on our community Facebook pages: SNA Community, LAX Community, Playa Vista Community.

Start Your First Climb

Around the gym you'll notice groups of holds going up the wall in the same color. Each set of same color holds makes up a route, which you'll climb from bottom to top. And this may seem straightforward, but there is actually a way to complete a route properly!

To start your route, you'll want to have both of your hands on the hold that is attached to the route tag. However, sometimes the route has a two handed start - meaning your hands can start on two different holds.

For two handed starts at Sender One, the rule is that you can use any holds attached to the route tag, OR below it. You know you have a two handed start when: you try to put both on one hold and it feels IMPOSSIBLE; you see another good hand hold below the route tag, or if you see chalk on another hold below the starting one - that means other climbers have been using it!

To finish your route, get both hands secured on the very top hold in the color you started on. When you can, use the down-climb (white or grey) holds to get lower to the floor before dropping down, your knees who will thank you later!

Did you know? 

Every Boulder grade starts with a "V" which is short for "Vermin", the nickname of John Sherman who was a pioneer of Bouldering, and the creator of the V-scale.

Every Rope Climbing grade starts with a "5." which comes from the Yosemite Decimal System. The "5." indicates the 'Class' of a hike, where 1 would be flat and 5 would require climbing & ropes in order to complete it. The additional numbers/letters such as "5.10a" indicates the difficulty of the climb itself. 

What to Climb

Understanding Climbing Grades

 Each boulder route in the gym will have a tag with a 'v' followed by a number. The number on this tag indicates the difficulty of the climb, with the lowest difficulty starting at v0. As a beginner, you'll want to find routes with a tag that show 'v0', 'v1', or 'v2'. Each gym has a learning corner where you will find multiple routes with these grades next to each other. This is the perfect place to start especially if it's your first time climbing. If you aren't sure where this learning corner is, just ask a staff member! Once you've climbed all these routes, you'll find even more lower difficulty grades scattered throughout the gym. 

Each top rope route will also have a tag with a number, and sometimes a letter. The lowest difficulty you'll find at the gym is a 5, and the routes will get more difficult as the numbers increase. Once you reach 10, you'll notice the tags start to include letters, such as '10a'. The letters range from 'a' to 'd', and indicate an increase in difficulty where a '10a' is less difficult than a '10d'. As a beginner, you'll likely start with grades 5-9, and some 10s if you're a natural.

Climbing Everything

During your first year of climbing it's helpful to focus on getting in  mileage - meaning go climb everything you can! This will help you build up strength, increase endurance, and introduce you to different styles of climbing. 

To get more mileage, warm-up by climbing up AND down routes. If heights don't suit you quite yet, that's okay too! You can get mileage in by traversingTraversing is essentially sideways climbing. Simply pick a starting point on the wall and climb to the left or right, working your way across the wall as far as you can go. 

Introduction to Climbing Techniques

As you start to climb more difficult routes, it will require a bit more technique to continue climbing efficiently. Here are some techniques you'll start to use:

Flagging: Using your legs to provide balance on the wall. When reaching for a hold in one direction, move your leg on the opposite side of your body out in the other direction. For example, if you reach towards the right with your right hand, move your left leg out towards the left to maintain balance.

Straight Arms: Keep your arms straight whenever possible to conserve energy, and focus on using your legs for driving momentum rather than relying on your arms.

Smearing: Using the the ball of your foot to gain friction on the wall.  Sometimes there may not be a hold available when you need it, but the wall is always there for you!

Foot matching: Switching which foot is placed on a particular hold. You can do this efficiently by hovering one toe directly above the foot on the hold, and quickly replacing the hovering toe with the other. 

Heel Hooks: Placing the back of your heel on a hold for stability, or to drive momentum through by pulling on a hold with your heel to reach the next hand hold. 

Stemming: Pushing with your hands and/or feet against opposing walls or holds.

Closed Hips: Turning your hips in close to the wall. This helps improve your reach, improve stability, and helps conserve energy. 

These climbing techniques and more are taught in our Intro to Bouldering class (FREE for members & punch-pass holders!) and Foundations Series. Class availability may vary by location, sign-up below!

Climb Free of Intimidations

One of the best parts of climbing is becoming a part the community. While climbing can be intimidating at first, don't forget that each climber had to start their own journey at the beginning too. If you ever feel stuck on a climb, or need a little encouragement, don't be afraid to ask a fellow climber for help. Part of climbing is really just creative problem solving, and us climbers love to work together to find the solution, or as we call it the 'beta'.

Another intimidating factor may be approaching a route when there are a few other advanced climbers watching. But toss those fears aside because the climbers sitting there need to take breaks between attempts, and work on finding a beta (creative solution) to complete their route. By attempting a route near them, you are really just ensuring they get a much needed break, and they will most likely cheer you on!

Getting support from your community can help accelerate your progress, and of course you may make some friends along the way.

Shopping for Your Own Climbing Shoes

Investing in your own climbing shoes is worth it! Rental shoes will only get you so far as they have their limits as you progress into more difficult routes. Plus, no one else's feet have been in them which is the real benefit. 

How Your Climbing Shoes Should Fit

Climbing shoes will fit more snug than a regular pair of shoes. It's actually perfect if your climbing shoe is a little bit tight as this will help give you more control when climbing! However, you don't want them to be uncomfortable. If your toes are too crunched where there's a clear bump when you look at them, try a size up. Also keep in mind that you don't typically wear socks while climbing, so be sure to test your shoe size without socks on.

How to Shop for Climbing Shoes

For your first pair of climbing shoes, you'll want to look for shoes designed for beginner climbers. Look for climbing shoes with only a slight arch, and more rounded toes. These are designed for more comfort since you'll be wearing your shoes throughout your session, rather than competition style shoes that climbers will take off right after they attempt their route.

A good example beginner shoe is the 5.10 Kirigami Climbing Shoe shown on the left.

Where to Shop For Climbing Shoes

5.10 climbing shoes, including the Kirigami shoe above, can be found in the retail section of your Sender One home gym (may vary by gym). If it's not available your size we can always order it for you!

You can also find gently used shoes from multiple brands at discounted prices through REI.

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